Monday 23 July - canal at Arras, the Somme, Villers-Bretenoux

Today I drove back to Bern, but since I was in the area I decided to go via Villers Bretenoux, a town in northern France near the Somme River with significant linkages to Australia from the time of WWI. On the way to Villers Bretenoux, I pulled off the motorway to get some fuel and realised I was near the town of Arras. This town had recently been getting some attention on the DBA Forum, since they had closed a section of the canal to allow rowing practice in preparation for the 2012 London Olympics. So I thought I'd go see what all the fuss was about.

There was not much evidence of barging activity on the canal. On the approach to the lock, there were a few moored barges, including the Piper Barge "Arran". They were moored next to the kayak training course, but since this facility was not on the canal itself, it should be able to operate in tandem with barges using the canal.

The real problem was further up the canal on the other side of the lock, where the entire width of the canal had been taken over by lane-markers for the rowing course.

Because the canal was not being used as a through route, the lock had not been used for a long time, and the lock and the approaches had filled with weed and general sludge. So much, in fact, that the water birds had no trouble simply walking over the top of the sludge.

Between the lock and the rowing course, the lack of through traffic had enabled many water birds (mostly ducks) to take up permanent residence in and around the floating weed. This may turn out to be the main long-term problem as various "bird-lovers" may try to prevent the canal being re-opened to barging after the Olympics in order to preserve this "natural habitat" for the birds. Will be interesting to observe what happens with the canal, now that the Olympics have finished.

After visiting Arras, I headed on to Villers Bretenoux, passing through the town of Pozières, which has a local cafe called "Le Tommy" with a very definite Australian theme. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to stop and have a look but I made a note to do so next time I am in the region.




I also passed over the Somme Canal near the town of Sailly-Laurette. I hope to go through here in the barge in the coming years.

So, on to Villers Bretenoux and the Australian War Memorial. I usually don't get excited about war memorials and such, but I had heard about Villers Bretenoux from when I was a kid, and how the kids in a French school used to sing the Australian national anthem each day. I doubted if it was true, but I wanted to see for myself.

The entrance to the War Memorial makes a simple but sobering statement.

The dedication plaque, the individual headstones and the wall of names reinforce the theme.

The view from the Memorial Tower gives some idea of the number of Australian deaths in this little part of France.

After this very sobering experience, it was time to head into town and see what all the fuss was about with the school kids. Seeing some of the street signs gives you the first indication that something is afoot.

And then finding the Victoria Primary School confirmed a few things. I couldn't hear the kids singing the national anthem, but I'm sure I heard a didgeridoo in the distance.

With the day's memories still fresh in my mind, the drive back to Bern went quicker than I'd expected.