There was more overnight rain, but we woke to a sunny morning. So around 1000h, we rode up the hill to the old part of town for Baume les Dames. And frankly, we were disappointed. Having loved Baume les Messieurs, we had probably set too high an expectation for Baume les Dames, and it was not met. While some of the buildings were interesting enough, the town as a whole lacked any overall appeal (even the famous unfinished spire on the church looked, well, incomplete). This lack of atmosphere was not helped by the fact that nearly all the streets were open to car traffic and car parking.

So despite having paid for two nights mooring, we decided to move on early and left port around 1300h. We soon left the canal, and got back to the river, and I realised how much I was enjoying the rivers (Doubs, Saone, Rhone) compared to the canals. Once more, the riverside scenery was spectacular, with the occasional village and farmland thrown in for good balance.

At one of the locks (Ecluse 37), we noticed a family on bicycles (with a cute curly-haired girl) watching our progress through the lock. We waved to them as we left, and a little while later noticed that they were following us as they rode along the bikepath. By the next lock, they had passed us, and we noticed them waiting at the next lock. We thought that they must be really fascinated by boats. Unfortunately, on this occasion, Frank the Zapper decided to play up again, and we couldn't get the lock to recognise our arrival. So I hovered in a very confined space, while Rita tried to get it to work. After a while, we noticed the father of the group walking down from the lock to talk to us. It turned out that he was a VNF eclusier in this region, and on checking the controls inside the lockhouse, he told us we were pressing button #2 (again). We knew for certain that we were not pressing that button, but he said he had reset the lock manually and we could enter in a few minutes.

When we got into the lock and had tied up, Rita got talking to him and found out that he was the eclusier from the next lock onwards (but was on holidays for a few weeks), while his wife was the eclusier for all locks from Baume les Dames to the current one. Indeed, she was the VNF person we spoke to yesterday when we phoned ahead to enquire about moorings at Baume les Dames! Rita then explained the problem we had had with Frank at a previous lock, and also that fact that something was rattling inside the Zapper when it was shaken, suggesting a loose connection. So he phoned ahead to his replacement eclusier to see if she had any replacement zappers, and found she did, so he arrnaged for her to meet us at the next but one lock and swap Frank for a zapper which worked properly. We thought this was exceptional service, especially since he was on holidays.

As we were about to leave the lock, he asked if we could do him a favour and take two of his kids on the barge to the next lock. He explained that despite working for VNF, his kids had never been on the river/canal. So, since he had been so helpful already, we readily agreed and bundled the kids onboard. They happily donned their life-vests, and sat on the rear deck with big smiles on their faces, chatting to Rita, until we arrived at the next lock.

When we gave the kids back, we had another talk and arranged to pick up the entire family on the return journey and give them a ride between a few locks, because it happens that it's not only the kids who haven't been on a barge. Neither of the parents, who both work for VNF, had been on the river as well. So we'll let them know when we're coming back, and arrange a lock at which to meet them.

We continued on to Ecluse 34, where we met the other VNF person and exchanged zappers with her. At each successive lock, we found them prepared and waiting for our entrance, since she was moving in our direction, checking the lights and electronics at each lock. Rita got into an extended conversation with her that went over many locks, and so by the time we said goodbye to her, they were "best friends".

We continued for the rest of the day until just before 1900h, when we tied up for the night at the waiting pontoon just before Ecluse 29. This was another mooring next to a barrage and with a wonderful view down the river.

After dinner, we walked up to the excluse, and found a cyclist who had set up his tent for the night by the side of the ecluse. Rita got talking with him (in German) and we found that his name was Volker, he was 72, he had worked in Columbia for 30 years as an engineer, and he had cycled from Germany down to Provence, and was now on his way back home along Eurovelo6. We had a long talk with him until darkness fell, and then left him to get a good sleep in his tent.